On 18th October, a bright sunny autumn day, a group of parishioners from St Margaret’s, Halstead and St Katharine’s, Knockholt visited the cathedral at the invitation of Canon Philip Hesketh.

Our guide, Helen Colvin, started the tour outside and showed us the cobbles in the road marking the site of the original church built in 604AD by Ethelbert, and we spent some time looking at the beautiful Romanesque front of the present cathedral, originally a monastery built by Bishop Gandulf.

We examined the different styles of arches and columns supporting the roof, and Helen showed us some of the mistakes which had been made during renovations over the centuries, resulting in arches losing a curve as a result of rebuilding, and a near disaster when a column supporting the tower had been demolished while changing a round arch to a pointed one, which necessitated a speedy restoration of the column with any stone which came to hand. We discovered that there are intricate little carvings of green men in different areas of the cathedral, and she pointed out the beautifully carved door in the South Quire Transept.

Particularly interesting were the faint images to be seen on a few walls, the remains of the richly coloured paintings which were part of the original structure. When funds permit there are plans to project digital images of these paintings onto the walls to show how magnificent the cathedral would have been. There is also a modern fresco in the cathedral by Sergei Fyodorov, the first one painted in an English cathedral for 800 years, very bright and spectacular, it lights up the wall. Other sources of colour were the beautiful floral decorations, large and dramatic. It must be inspiring for flower arrangers to have so much space in which to display their art. The Quire also contained kneelers embroidered by members of the congregation to mark the Millennium, very complicated patterns, with a tweedy effect produced by the use of three different strands of wool in the needle. Helen had made one, very hard on the eyes apparently, and really difficult to unpick if a mistake was made.

We visited the attractive Lady’s chapel, and were shown the Pilgrims Stairs, which they had to ascend on their knees, a feat which we were fortunately not required to emulate. Finally we visited the crypt – a very simple and peaceful space which I imagine has changed little since the cathedral was built.

Our visit to Rochester concluded with a welcome cup of coffee with Canon Hesketh in Garth House in the cathedral precincts. He told us about some of the projects they had in mind for the future, funds permitting; the projection of pictures being one, and the introduction of an audio-guide system another. He told us how much they value the help they receive from volunteers, who are always needed and welcome. I was interested and surprised to hear that the cathedral does not receive any of the money which comes to the diocese from the Parish Share, and therefore has to raise funds for anything it needs. A fact we should perhaps all remember. We are grateful to Canon Hesketh for his time and hospitality, a fascinating interlude, and an experience we can recommend to other parishes.

Pat Lewis